$3 x-rays, no chemicals (?!), and a very happy Christmas to you!

Merry almost Christmas! Still no more pictures, sorry sorry.

No big news here; snow's falling every few days, everyone's preparing for exams and getting excited for New Year's celebrations, which will last a good two or three weeks.

I went to get chest x-rays the other day (no worries, it's routine and required for living in the dorm). Guess how much it cost? 70 rubles, which is about $2.92 in the States. I could hardly believe it when the technician told me. I've also been trying to get an AIDs test (also required). The first time I showed up, they said I was too late. The second time, they said they were out of the proper chemicals to do the tests and I should just call after New Year. I wanted to ask, "You do realize this is an AIDs clinic, dedicated especially to testing for AIDs? And you're telling me you don't have any of the chemicals needed to do your job? Best of luck pulling a profit in the next four weeks." But, the bright spot is, it costs a whopping 155 rubles ($6.45).

Paying out of pocket takes on a whole new meaning here. I could need some medical test, go dig through my change jar and have enough to cover it!

I've managed to get sick again, this time with a nice phlegm-y cough, will spare you the details on that. It's less than convenient, with finals right around the corner on Monday and Tuesday. You can certainly pray for some miraculous understanding for me on these tests ... we're still not entirely sure what we're being tested on, and the 'practice' tests we've been given have been way beyond any of us ... about 60% is new material we've never covered or studied.

May each of you have a blessed Christmas with family and friends (eat some good food for me!). Thanks again for all of the support, love, and encouragement!

Because of Him,
Elsbeth

Quick update!

Happy December everyone! It doesn't feel much like Christmas here. In fact, I just found out that I have exams the week of Christmas. You can pray for me, please =)

I just wanted to let you all know that life is excellent and going very well.

There's not much snow here yet, but everyone tells me, "just wait until January, then you'll see."

I ate little whole fish (fried and dipped in bread crumbs) for breakfast the other day (my roommates made them). I managed to get three down. My roommates are really wonderful, and we share many laughs. I am learning a bit of Chinese and they think it's quite hilarious to hear me imitate them speaking. They also love watching American movies, especially when I translate (fun for them, very very very tiring for me - but good practice).

Also, please pray for Beth and Aaron. They are missionaries here in Khabarovsk, but currently in Mongolia, waiting for approval (hopefully) of their new visa. No one's really sure when they'll be back. The Russian government has been passing some funky new visa laws and you get a different answer from every person you talk to.

Pictures coming soon, I promise!

Much love!

Happy Thanksgiving!

Last weekend, we (me, Beth & Aaron, Cecil & Tanya, and their three kids) took the train to Novi-Irgal, a 14 hour ride north. We were on the rain over night, and woke up to lots of snow on the ground! We spent the weekend in the city working with a small church, and had a wonderful service on Saturday, where Beth, Aaron and I shared our testimonies, and Cecil preached. It was a very neat experience; their pastor, Dima, works at the railway depot and has Sunday off one week, Saturday off the next, so the church follows his work schedule. Dima and his wife Sveta have two young boys (3 and 7), and live in a four room apartment - one bedroom, a kitchen, a bathroom, and a living room. Lunch and dinner with 16 people there was a blast!

Here are some picture from the trip:

Four people to a coupe, what fun! It was about 85 degrees all night and the windows don't open. I was pleasantly suprised at how easy it was to fall asleep on the train, it's rather like being rocked to sleep.

Beth and I in our beautiful winter coats! Yes, that's real fur lining our hoods.

We walked to see the new church they're building.

Here's the church. It's built out of railroad ties- the cheapest building material available.

Sunset in Novi-Irgal.

Thanksgiving was two days ago, and we celebrated at the Eshelman's house with turkey and mashed potatoes. It was nice evening, but a little strange - it didn't feel much like Thanksgiving. But, at least the turkey tastes the same.

School is going very well. I now live with three Chinese girls, and am having opportunities to practice Mandarin (which is terrible) every day. I have had several more opportunities to go into the English department and meet with the students. It's been really neat getting to meet lots of students and answer many questions about American culture.

I can't believe that Christmas is in 30 days! It will be interesting, my first Christmas away from home and family.

Please pray for my concentration in school! Some days, I think I'm destined for a implosion of my brain. Also, for my three roommates, Sonia in particular. She's become quite attatched to me, and we've had some excellent conversations. Please pray for me, that I would find many ways to reach out to her and be a good friend.

Much love to all!

Pictures!

Hi everyone! I 've managed to get a few pictures up. Some day I'll walk you through where I actually live, etc, but for now, this is what we've got.

This is the view from my room, about three weeks ago. Now, it's covered in a few inches of snow! That's a playground, with sand and a slide. The little buildings are garages. I'm about a 1/4 mile from the very center of the city, which is nice, because I can walk lots of places!

This is my room, which is intended for two, but houses only me. I still haven't figured out why I didn't get a roommate, but I'm certainly not complaining. It's actually been very nice to have a quiet peaceful space all to myself. I share a bathroom and entranceway with two girls from China, Anya and Liza. They're very sweet, but don't speak English or Russian, so communication is extremely difficult!

This is my first night in Khabarovsk. Deanna and Vera are the Eshelman's daughters. They're six and seven, full of energy, and make me feel right at home.

A very cold day by the river! Joy and Arnold Lastinger, missionaries with AGWM, were visiting, and we went to the cathedrals on their last day.

And, proof that I'm alive! This is my favorite cathedral; the ceiling is painted a dark blue with beautiful stars. I wish cameras were allowed inside so you could see it!

Classes at the university are going extremely well, and I'm thoroughly enjoying getting to know my classmates, as well as my way around the city. God has proved his faithfullness time and time again! It's hard to believe I've been here for almost a month; the time has really flown by. I miss home, family, and friends, but the adventures that present themselves every day do an excellent job of distracting me.

Much love to all of you! As always, I covet your prayers.

Oh Russia how I love thee (and hate your internet connections)

Well well. The title explains most of it! I've been hoping to send e-mails, receive e-mails, and catch up but apparently it is not in the Plan. Beth and Aaron (two missionaries in the city) just got DSL and boy was I excited. They are awesome; they invite me over for dinner and we eat good American food and wallow in our cross-cultural sorrows. Anyway, DSL. Well, here in good old Mother Russia, your computer has to be registered with the internet company! Which means my laptop (unregistered) cannot use their internet (registered). Oh frustrations.

All that to say, many apologies, and I wish I could be e-mailing each one of you. By the way, thanks for all the wonderful e-mails in the last week. I can't explain how exciting it is to check my e-mail and have lots of mail! It's like Christmas. I get very giddy and excited.

Life here is basically great. I am learning to adapt, sleep on a creaky bed, and speak Chinese/Korean/Japanese/Russian. I'm starting to cook (very adventurous), and keep a straight face every time I open the fridge I share with my roommates (the two ziplock bags full of tiny dead fish are a bit overpowering). I have drunk about seventy-two different kinds of tea in the last three weeks, had my first experience with borscht (excellent), and become brave enough to start taking public transportation. I have been to a church in an auditorium, a church in an apartment, and a church in a ballet studio (with a mariachi band). I really like it here!

Through conversations in the dorm, I've learned that most of my fellow students would describe themselves as Christians, but I wouldn't have guessed if they hadn't said something. One guy told me the other day, "I am a Christian, but I drink and I smoke ... I believe God has given me these thins to enjoy." Hmm. You can pray for wisdom for me, when it comes to answering statements like that. It has been very frustrating trying to get to know the people on my hall. Since I don't speak Korean and they don't speak English, the only chance of communicating is Russian, which is a second language for all parties involved. Things can get a bit confusing!

Today, I spent part of the afternoon in an English class, talking with a group of twelve Russian girls, all 18-20. For all but one, it was their first time ever meeting an American! They were very shy at first, but really warmed up after I did all the talking for twenty minutes. The first thing I said was, "How many of you have seen American movies?" They all raised their hands. "Well, what you see in those movies - that is not what life in America is like." They seemed quite relieved. I've been invited back in two weeks, and promised that the girls will cook and we'll have high tea, since I am 'far too skinny and probably eating too many noodles for dinner' (this from the head of the English department).

Tomorrow, I'm giving a presentation on 'The Problems of Youth in Culture Today' for the Asian Studies department. I had a difficult time not laughing when they asked me to speak. But, I'm very excited; a captive audience, as much time as I'd like, and the most ambiguous topic ever given!

Well, it's 9:15 here, and I've got some homework to finish up before I hit the sack. I've found myself enjoying sleep like never before! Life in another culture is pretty exhausting, even if you're just sitting around in class all day. My brain is on overdrive pretty constantly, and my English is deteriorating rapidly. Some mornings I talk to myself while getting ready for class, just to make sure I can still make a sentence properly.

Thanks for all the prayers! Hopefully I'll have some pictures for next time!
Much love!

10 Tips for Success in Russia: a few moderately facetious cultural observations.

10 Tips for Success in Russia:

1. Be more than fashionably late. Time is a very different concept in this part of the world. Professors are often fifteen, even twenty, minutes late for class. Students are an exception, unfortunately, and walking in more than ten minutes late is frowned upon. If someone says they'll call you back, they will, but it might be in six or seven hours. The other day, I had to pay my tuition at 2 pm. I got out of class at 1:15, ran back to my dorm, ate cookie for lunch, got all of my paperwork and money, and was high-tailing it to the administration building thinking, "Yes, I'm going to be five minutes early." Then I realized they wouldn't know what to do with me if I was early. Sure enough, I arrived three agonizing minutes late and was offered a chair ... for an hour and a half.

2. If you are a Real Woman, you will wear heels (at least two inches, minimum) at all times. Even if those times require things like walking through broken up asphalt (every day), walking through some sort of mud (every day), walking through trash (every day), walking uphill and downhill every where (every day), you will still wear heels. The brighter and crazier, the better. Who cares if they don't match with the rest of your outfit? They make a splash, and that's what matters (see Tip 7 for more information).

3. Drink tea - all the time. Nothing matters as long as you have a cookie and a cup of tea. However, a cup of tea without a cookie is a preposterous idea, and should never be considered, even as a remote possibility.

4. Do not be disturbed by the color of the water coming out of your faucet. If it's a funny color, that's actually a good sign, because it means something else is starting to work (like the radiators, etc). Just boil it and you'll be fine.

5. Prepare yourself for some terrible television. It is better that you simply have no expectations about this matter. It is devoid of any real content, borderline pornography, and has at least four channels devoted entirely to MTV and the rest to celebrity gossip. Bring lots of books, they're worth their weight.

6. Expect to pay for plastic bags at any store. You Americans take so many things for granted.

7. When getting dressed in the morning, remember this: the purpose of clothing is to draw attention to yourself. Looking 'put-together' is a silly idea. Ostentatious and over-the-top is much more acceptable. I would suggest the following regime for Selection of an Outfit: take a deep breathe and open your closet door. Close your eyes and offer up a prayer to the Clothing Gods. Stretch out your hands and grab 3-6 pieces of clothing. Don't open your eyes yet! Put on the clothes you have selected. Now you can peek. Ah, yes. Perhaps a scarf, to liven it up a bit? Perfect. Now, just for the shoes ... oh, what a difficult choice! No, actually, pull on your favorite pair (no one cares if they don't match, silly goose), but take heed and remember, heels are not optional. Now you're set for the day! March out your door like you have just been elected Prime Minister.

8. Remember what I said about you taking things for granted? Yes well, you take construction crews with flagmen for granted too. Just squeeze through as best you can, don't run anyone else over if at all possible, and try to keep your temper.

9. If you don't want to stand out, I would recommend abstaining any sort of smile or facial expression (exception: looking moderately close to murdering anyone within reach is ok). Laughing is strictly forbidden unless you are a female, age 15-22, walking with a gaggle of your friends. Do not look around or show any interest in your surroundings and fellow man. When you are using public transportation, pretend you are all alone in your private limo, about ready to take over the world.

10. Know where you are going beforehand. Street signs are overrated anyway.

11. Be prepared to take matters into your own hands. Whether this is asking friends for favors, making friends using favors, or bypassing the rules altogether, know that this is the only way things really get done. Eventually, you will train yourself out of thinking the authorities can help in any way. Getting them involved only complicates it more! This is a very personal tip, as I spent a good part of last night disassembling and reassembling my toilet. It had been running constantly (and very loudly) for a day or so. My first thought was to ask the floor monitor about it. Then, I realized that it would involve me explaining the situation to her in Russian, her deciphering my question and calling someone, who would have to call someone, who would probably have to call someone too, and then someone, eventually, would come take a look, and maybe do something about it, and all this time, my toilet would still be running. So, in the Russian style, I put on some dirty clothes, rolled up my sleeves, and got to work. You gentlemen who have experience in the area of plumbing will be laughing at the simplicity of this task, but Russian toilets are a different breed altogether. It took a bit of tinkering, but now it's quiet and behaving properly. Slava Bogu (praise God!)!

Now that you understand these things, you are welcome visit me!

More to come ...

But this will do for now. I'm alive and in Seoul, waiting for my flight to Khabarovsk! I already have lots of stories to tell, but they'll have to come later, because there's a sign specifically instructing me not to hog internet, which I intend to heed.

My bag tipped the scales at 22.9 kg (limit is 23 kg), so hurrah for that. I miss all of you! I'm ready for a nap ... I think it's at least 6 or 7 pm in the US right now, but only 8 am here. Boo for time changes. Stories to come, I promise.

Much love to all!

A final sabbath at home

Well, well. One more day in the good old US of A, barring any unforseen circumstances. So far, it's been a spectacular weekend; full of friends, milkshakes, and a few more great memories to add to the record. I woke up this morning and my stomach, for lack of a better description, dropped a few hundred feet. Sleeping well has become a challenge, as my brain is in overdrive, remembering everything I need to do/bring/pack/mail.

Today at church, I tried to say thank you to everyone who has been an influence on me in the last three years. Haha. How I wish I could have had another four or five hours! Goodbyes are always difficult. But thank you, my wonderful church family! If I could only begin to write about how you have blessed me.

I have high hopes for lots and lots of free wifi connections, where ever I go. I'm not sure I'm ready to start paying Starbucks so I can check my e-mail. We'll see.

The luggage situation seems to have resolved itself quite well. I'm suprised how much I've been able to fit, and I'm still four pounds away from my limit.

There are so many things I could ask you to pray for, but for now, how about a final relaxing Sunday with my family and friends.

Yes sir, I have a plane ticket!

And now, it is really-and-truly official. Travels are scheduled to begin Monday night, October 1 and end October 3. I must admit, hanging up the phone after talking with my travel agent, I had my first case of real butterflies. It is such a strange combination of excitement and apprehension.

"You get what you pay for" has taken on an entirely new meaning for me in the last 24 hours. Looking up my weight limit for baggage, I was initially delighted to read '70 lbs/2 suitcases' listed on the airline's website. Well, after scrolling down a few inches, my party was quickly rained out. I am, as I have for my entire life, flying as an economy passenger. Apparently, I signed up not just for less leg room, but also a 50 pound weight limit on baggage. I'll be sure to keep you updated as I attempt to pack a life into one suitcase and a backpack!

Five days, give or take a few hours. Wooo.

Life Lesson: Don't get shots when you have lots of things to do

The title says it all. I went to the traveler's clinic today, to get a couple shots I needed. I was expecting six, according to my internet research, but I only got two, plus an oral typhoid series, because the other three aren't even given in the US. Hmm ... so, I'll have some interesting decisions to make once I get there, about whether getting involved with the Russian healthcare system is worth it or not. But no worries, the three aren't absolutely neccessary; I have the very important ones finished and that's what matters.

But, I also learned a lesson, as mentioned above. I got a shot in each shoulder, which wasn't too terrible. They hurt more than normal shots, but afterwards, I felt great. No pain, no nothing. I drove myself home, still feeling good. Then, I tried to put the sun visor back up. Not so much. Seven hours later, I can hardly move either arm. I wish you could see me trying to type; it's quite funny. So much for getting a lot done tonight. It's just a dull throb, and I convince myself I'm just being pathetic and reach for something - at which point it becomes ... very painful.

Hopefully, I'll have my arms back in time to wash my hair tomorrow morning (and pack).

In the last year, I've met the most wonderful people in the most random places. Today was just another day: the lady who did my immunizations was extremely nice and so encouraging. Did I mention that she was very encouraging? Because she was. Many many thanks, Carly!


Seven days and counting!!

Stop-and-go traffic (and finally, a visa!)

My life, the last six months, has reminded me very much of crazy city traffic. One moment, you're making great headway towards your destination, and the next, you find yourself sitting at the longest red light in the entire world, stuck behind a bus, with absolutely no idea where you are.

But, dare I even say it, it seems that this trip is actually going to happen!

My letter of invitation (LOI) from the university, which was supposed to arrive weeks and weeks ago, showed up about two weeks ago, in a very peculiar location: our greenhouse. I suppose the DSL man got confused, but then again, the house is very obviously forty feet away. Well, at least we found it, right?

So, armed with my LOI, I set off to get the real deal official visa ... which also turned into a bit of a muck. Let's just say the Russian Embassy in D.C. has an excellent music selection for you to listen to while on hold (and they are particularly unhelpful when you actually get to talk to them). I eventually found out I needed a few more bits and pieces of information - contacts, addresses in Russia, etc - so I did a bit of frantic e-mailing once again. After that, there wasn't much I could do but sit tight until I got everything I needed.

Over the last week, everything trickled in, and Monday morning, I set off for D.C. with my dad and littlest sister (if you're going to D.C., you may as well turn it into a field trip, right?). I was expecting an embassy like you see in the movies - a nice white facade, you walk in, talk to the pretty woman at the desk, and so on and so forth. Boy, was I surprised. Rather than being on 'Embassy Row' with all the other embassies, the Russians decided to plant themselves smack in the middle of a residential apartment area. Their compound, and I'm not kidding when I say compound, takes up about half a block and is, truth be told, a walled, fenced, you're-not-welcome-here sort of place. One might think it was totally deserted on first glance. We drove around the block, trying to spot the door, and it turns out, there isn't really one. Just gates.

So here's the drill (if you ever need to apply for a Russian visa): first, you call or look online, and find out the exact times you need to be there. The time for visa applicants is 9 am. Around 8:50, people begin to gather outside the gate, sitting on the sidewalk and in the grass. Someone stands by the wall and pushes the buzzer every few minutes. At 9, everyone starts nervously looking at their watches. As each minute passes, they get more and more antsy. Somewhere around 9:05-9:10, you hear a little click and everyone JUMPS for the gate before it re-locks itself. Then it's the gentleman's free-for-all; everyone is trying to pretend they're polite and unselfish, but really, all they want is to be the first one in that door. I, as the only female, managed to make it to the front of the line (thank you, courteous gentleman). So, I handed in all of my paperwork, got a receipt and was told, "Come back at 3 pm". I walked out shaking my head and thinking, "that was way too easy."

We walked around D.C. for the rest of the morning, saw the sights, and headed back to the embassy. I waited by the gate again, got in, showed my receipt, and was handed my passport, complete with Russian visa. Once again, I couldn't believe it. They didn't ask for ID or anything. Out I walked, through the empty garden, onto the street. It was disturbingly easy, but I'm not complaining! I guess, after the months of paperwork and waiting, they can cut you some slack.

The visa begins October 1, but the airlines only fly into Khabarovsk on Wednesdays and Fridays, which means I'm still not sure of my exact date of departure (somewhere between October 1-4). I should have tickets by tomorrow though (hopefully all of that will go smoothly).

Thanks for all of your prayers and generous support in the last weeks (especially to my home church, you all are amazing!) It's hard to believe that in twelve or thirteen days, I'll be on a plane to Russia, but I could not be more excited!

A few things you can pray for:
1. I found out last week that the school semester began in September. At this point, all I can do is laugh about it, but it does makes me almost a month late. I've been assured that it won't be a problem, but it is nerve-wracking. Pray for ease in catching up!
2. Finances. I have quite enough to get there and start living, but I'm hoping to stay until the middle of the summer, and unless I live in a cardboard box and eat black bread for every meal, it's going to be tight.
3. A wonderful last few weeks with my family and friends here in the US!

A thousand thank yous and much love to all,
Elsbeth

Step one: check!

Well, it's been a long trek the last two months; scrambling to apply to universities (again!), visa paperwork, and worrying about money, but it might be safe to say that we're out of the woods (at least for now).

This morning, I got word that my letters of invitation have been issued, and will be sent immediately. Thanks be to God! I should have them in about a week, and then begins step two: getting the actual visa. Please continue to pray, especially that this process will go quickly and smoothly.

I have been accepted to two universities: Pacific National University and Far Eastern State Humanities University. PNU's term begins September 7 (no one knows when FESHU begins - how I love Russian bureaucracy already). This gives me a little under three weeks to get a visa, plane ticket, pack up, and be halfway around the world before the semester starts. Do the math and you'll realize that it doesn't quite work out: the LOIs will be here in a week + two weeks to apply and recieve a visa from the consulate = three weeks. Like I said, please keep praying. It's in God's hands, and He is far better at handling things like this than I am.


(For those of you who patiently listen to this saga on a daily basis, what follows is old news to you.)

I know I've been terrible about updating my website. This summer, one of my friends kindly helped me set it up, but he had to move away to Texas for school, so now I'm pretty stuck (thanks a lot, Jared!). It might take me a while to figure out how to do the baffling technical stuff, so blogspot seemed the safest option for now. And now, The Story:

When I sent out letters in early July, everything was fine and dandy, all going according to plan. As we all know, "the best laid plans of mice and men often go awry". And boy, did mine go awry. To enter Russia, you must have a visa, even if you're going to be there for six hours. Student visas are tied up in the university you are attending. Your university is responsible for obtaining a Letter of Invitation, which is what you get so you can then apply for the actual visa. I was accepted to a university in Khabarovsk in March, and began the LOI process. In June, I began to wonder what was going on. In July, I found out that the university had "over-enrolled" and I wasn't welcome there any more. I also found out that the deadline for applying to schools for the September semester was July 10, which was two days away. So, back to filling out forms, sending e-mails, and a bit of stress about translating transcripts into Russian. Away went my applications, and I began waiting. And waiting. And waiting. I think everyone goes on vacation from July to the middle of August. Let it suffice to say I have a newfound sense of patience after a month of checking my e-mail thirty times a day, hoping for some kind of answer.

But the answer has finally come, and I have recieved so many generous gifts and am doing well financially. A thousand thanks to all of you who have given!

The missionaries I am interning with in Khabarovsk, Cecil and Tonya, also have a blog. They have pictures and lots of stories! http://www.eshelman.blogspot.com/


Please pray for guidance about which university I should attend. I'm torn about it, and it's a huge decision.

In His Grip,
Elsbeth